Island hopping

The island dot Mazatlán’s horizon: Isla de los pajaros , Isla de los venados, and Isla de los chivos. Each has its own personality. Venados ("deer") and chivos ("goat") are quiet and undisturbed, perfect for water sports. Pajaros ("birds") is popular for birdwatching. Hundreds of species nest on the island. Regular amphibian service depart throughout the day from the beach area in from of El Cid resort and from other locations. Round trips cost about $8 US. per person.

You can also head south to Isla de la piedra, (actually a peninsula) for its tropical, palm-lined beaches and "south seas" atmosphere. It’s a favorite Sunday hangout for Mexican families. Someday this will be developed into a massive

Resort area. Estrella del Mar, a new 18hole golf course is open (see MZT-6).

The aquarium and botanical gardens

See over 50 fresh and saltwater tanks with sharks, eels, seahorses, lobsters, and over 250 exotic species from around the world. Interesting sea museum, a trained seal show and an auditorium with films about sea life make this a perfect family outing. Open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. A tiny zoo and botanical gardens (the Jardin Botánico)are nearby. Tel (69)817815.

Mazagua

This family aquatic park has slides, toboggans, pools, a wave machine and other aquatic entertainment. Open 9:00am-6:00pm daily. Tel. (69)880205.

Downtown and olas altas

The old section of the city has many restored 19^th century buildings. Start at the Plaza Revolución, the cit’y main square, surrounded by palm trees and colonial-style buiLding. In the center is one of Mexico’s most bizarre gazebos: it looks like a 50’s diner on the inside with a wrought iron bandstand on top. Facing the square is Mazatlán’s beautiful cathedral. Begun in 1875 and completed in 1890, this Moorish-style church has twin blue and golf spires and a gilded ornate triple altar.

A few short blocks to the south is the Plaza machado, the city’s historic center and the site of , Mazatlán’s annual Carnival celebration. Several civic buildings and former mansions surrounding the Plaza have been restored.

The teatro angela peralta is the oldest theater in Mazatlán (built in 1860) and has recently been restored to its European-style grandeur. There’s also the Archaeological Museum, with hundred of preColumbian relics as well as a great deal of information about Mazatlan’s history.

Just west of downtown is Olas altas, the original home to Mazatlán’s visitor industry. Although the resorts left years ago, take a peek at the old Hotel Belmar, once Mazatlan’s premier place to stay. Just to the north is an old Spanish fort (Fuerte Carranza) from which Mazatlán defended itself from French invaders in the 1860’s. Nearby is the Plazuela Sanchez Taboada, a lookout point where cliff divers plunge into the sea.

Stroll the malecón

Mazatlán palm-lined waterfront promenade (malecon) connects the zona dorada and Old Mazatlán. It is one of Mexico´s logest and prettiest walkways. It makes a wonderful morning or evening stroll. Toward downtown the fisherman´s Monument features a fisherman and a seductive mermaid. This monument is a symbol of the port and a tribute to the brave fishermen, past and present.

Get above it all

The geography of the downtown (southern) region of the city is punctuated by three peaks. Each affords visitor wonderful views of Mazatlán and the Pacific. Here are their descriptions from north to south.

CERRO DE LA NEVERIA:
"Ice box hill" first served as an observation point for the Spaniards. In the 1800´s imported ice from San Francisco was stored in tunnels to protect seafood harvests.

CERRO DEL VIGIA:
Another towering peak with fantastic views and an excellent seafood restaurant. The hill is topped by the Pergola Angela Peralta, a lookout tower with cannons used by the Spanish to guard the ardor.

CERRO DEL CRESTON:
The southernmost hill at land’s end offers marvelous views of the harbor , the Pacif, and Old Mazatlán. The lighthouse, El faro, is the wold’s tallest at 505 feet. A "MUST SEE."

There is also a daily tour of the Pacifico Brewery, maker of one of Mexico´s finest beers. Or how about Spanish lessons? Weekly programs are offered by the Centro de Idiomas, tel.(69)822053 or in the U.S. at (206)842-1800(The Mazatlán Connection).

Outside Mazatlán

The region’s rich colonial past unfolds during an interesting day trip into the cool mountains east of Mazatlán. Visitors can take regular, inexpensive, first-class bus transportation to explore these cities (departures from the "Central de Autobuses"). organized tours are offered by several companies. See listing on previous page under "Tour Operator."

Concordia & copala

Concordia is a small hamlet in the Sierra Madre foothills, founded in 1565. It is only 45 km to the east of Mazatlán via route 40 (toward Durango), but seems about 100 years back in time. The town is famous for many attractions, including once having been a French garrison (during France´s brief occupation of Mexico in the 1860´s). The shady and peaceful town square has an ornate Baroque-style church (Iglesia de San Sebastián)dating to the 18^th Centuary and the State´s oldest standing building. The city’s cobblestone lanes and red tile-roofed buildings offer a pleasant break from Mazatlan’s oceanfront attractions.

Concordia is famous for its fine carved furniture and quality pottery and ceramics. In fact , a giant rocking chair ( a tribute to the city’s century old furniture making industry) is in the main square.

Continue another 24 km (69 km form Mazatlán) along steep and winding route 40 to Copala, one of Sinaloa’s more endearing villages. This former mining town was also founded in 1565, and has preserved its Mexican village pace and colonial veneer even better than Concordia. Cobblestone streets, colonial-era building, flower-filled patios, and clear mountains, air make Copala a refreshing retreat. Its thousand residents received electricity in the 1970’s (yes!).

The city spreads out over cliffs and ravines covered with semi-tropical vegetation.

Many homes cling to surrounding canyons and steep mountainsides. The main atraction is its lovely church built in 1640. Have lunch at Daniel’s a wonderful hilltop Mexican restaurant serving tasty Mexican cuisine and to-die-for banana coconut pie.

Both cities are visited on a tour that departs daily from Mazatlán. Cot is $280 pesos per person. (See page MZT-3 for tour operator listing). The drive via es-corted bus tour or private car travels up-ward into the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains and past mango plantations and farmland. The road is one of Mexico’s most scenic highways, eventually crossing the rugged spine of the Sierra Madre Mountains and emerging in Durango State.

Rosario and Teacapán

Visitors heading south from Mazatlán frequently make stops in the colonial mining village of Rosario and the tropical seaside village of Teacapán (tay-ah-kah-PAHN). Both are combined into a popular day tour from Mazatlán that entices both history buffs and ecotourists.

Rosario (located 76 km southeast of Mazatlán), is a somewhat nondescript former mining town along the shore of Rio Baluarte. The chance discovery of golf and silver in 1655 made Rosario an important colonial-era mining town, and set the town into a boom/bust cycle that only tourism has helped it escape. With a population of 7,000 the little town sits atop a labyrinth of over 70 km of mining tunnels.

Above ground is one of Sinaloa’s crown jewels, the Templo de Nuestra Señora del Rosario. Built with local mine wealth between 1731-59 this lovely baroque-style church has a stunning gold encrusted main altar. Facing the church is a statue of Mexican singer and Hollywood actress Lola Beltran , a native of Rosario.

To the west of town about 30 km is the Laguna El Caimanero, a picturesque tropical lagoon. Another 22 km south is the town of Escuinapa (population 70,0000), a major shrimp and mango producing area, and gateway to the coastal villae of Teacapán (30 km southwest of Escuinapa passes along several tropical lagoons, deserted sandy beaches, and enormous coconut and palm groves. Plentiful migratory waterfowl (mostly ducks) and excellent fishing for snook, snapper, and mackerel make the Teacapán area a hunting and fishing haven.

The village of Teacapán rests along the Estero Teacapán at the mouth of this large estuary. Once here, pangas can be rented for exploration of the estuary and inland waterways. Kayaking and canoeing are excellent. In total there are over 80 km of mangrove-lined canals. The area is one western Mexico’s most beautiful coastal regions – a miniature Amazon , replete with tropical flowers, jungle-like vegetation and exotic wildlife. The palm-lined beaches north of Teacapán are quite attractive.

Teacapán is 140 km south of Mazatlán.

Day trips are available through several tour operators (see listing page MZT-3).

SHOPPING

Mazatlán’s got it all together when it comes to shopping. From open-air mercados to boutiques or shopping malls, the assortment is varied and ping malls, the assortment is varied and the price is right. The zona dorada is the shopping capital of Mazatlán, but don’t stop there; some of your most interesting finds could be off the beaten path.

Although the region is not known for any particular handicraft tradition, shops have an ample selection of items from all of Mexico. There is also a downtown "mercado central" that’s ideal for browsing and bargain hunting and a large ultra modern mall (La Gran Plaza). Here’s short list of some of Mazatlán’s shops…

Casa Maya: Large and unusual selection of hand-crafted items, leather boots, custom leather goods, carved onyx, Huichol art. Av. R. Loaiza.

Centro Comercial Las Cabañas: Seafront shopping mall selling almost everything. Av. R. Loaiza.

Designer’s Bazaar: lovely hand-painted and batik women’s fashions plus jewelry and folk art. Av. Loaiza & Playa Mazatlán.

Evolution Book Store: Mexican and Brazilian crystals, New Age music, cards, candles, incense, tarot cards, psychic readings, books in Spanish and English. Located in alley behind Sr. Frogs store on Av. R. Loaiza.

Indio Gifts: large selection of silver and gold jewelry, and custom pieces, Mexican handicrafts. Av. R. Loaiza.

Mazatlán Art Gallery: fine Mexican art and exhibitions of contemporary work.

Three locations.

Mike O’Houlihan’s: some of the best prices and great selection of Mexican silver jewerly, Mike restocks pieces daily, also great selection of Mexican blankets. Av. Camarón Sábalo.

Señor Frog’s Official Store: extensive line of resort wear for the entire family; five locations.

Tane: a treasure-trove of Mexico’s most expensive and finest silver jewelry and handmade antique reproductions. Camino Real hotel.

There are also the usual chain stores like Aca Joe, Benetton, Bye-Bye, Polo, and Gucci selling resort wear and other fashions at El Cid and The golden Zone.

SPORTS & OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

WATER SPORTS

BEACHES

Mazatlán has one the longest stretches of uninterrumped beach in Mexico. Water temperature tends to stay in the 65-75° F. range year-round. Surf is generally moderate, although care should always be taken when swimming in the open sea.

PLAYA NORTE : popular with locals; lots of palapa restaurants selling fresh seafood and cool drinks; local fishermen anchor their boats here.

PLAYA SABALO & LAS GAVIOTAS: superb beaches that make up the zona dorada resort area; lots of activity, seaside cafes, strolling vendors and sports action; great for swimming and sunbathing.

PLAYA OLAS ALTAS: meaning " high waves, " this beach is popular for surfing (biggest waves in the summer) and as a nostalgic cove where Mazatlán’s tourism industry began in the 1950’s.

PLAYA LOS CERRITOS: one of Mazatlán’s finest uncrowded beaches, located to the north of the hotel zone.

Diving, Snorkeling, And…

Head to the offshore islands, especially Deer Island. Also popular are Playa Cerritos and Stone Island. Parasailing, hobie cat rentals, boogie boarding, and jetskis are all available along Sábalo and Gaviotas beaches. The Aqua Sports Center at El Cid is THE place to go for first rate equipment. Tel.(69) 133333 ext. 341.

GOLF

Mazatlán has one of Mexico’s best resort courses at El Cid ( Larry Hughes design; 6, 712 yards ) . This fine 18-hole, 72-par course is now open to the public. Tel. (69) 133333. The course is currently being renovated under the guidance of Lee Trevino. An additional 9 holes will open in November, 1998. New America’s Golf School debuted in November, 1997. Twice annual tournaments (March and November) are very popular. Contacts Best Golf Tours for complete details about the El Cid golf facility (1-888-817-GOLF). The new Robert Trent Jones, Jr. Estrella del Mar course (par 72, 7,004 yards) stretches along 2 miles of coastline. It’s located south of downtown about 10 minutes from the airport. Green fees: $ 50-75 with cart. Tel. (69) 823300.

TENNIS

Many resorts have excellent facilities, including Costa de Oro (3 courts), Los Sábalos (2 lighted courts), The Racquet Club ( 3 "laykold" and 3 clay courts; Pueblo Bonito ( guests play free here) and Club Deportivo las Palmas ( 8 courts). The most complete tennis center is at El Cid (13 courts). A Steve Vaughn Tennis Academy is one of Mexico’s best. In all, there are over 50 courts available to

visitors.

FISHING

Fishing is not only a sport in Mazatlán is’t a way of life. There are eight fleets of sports fishing vessels in operation with nearly 65 boats. The best months are March through December, although fish are plentiful. Record size sailfish, black, blue and striped marlin are caught along with tuna, sea bass, dorado and grouper.

A full-day charter with equipment and guides stars at about $ 250 U.S. All fishing charters depart from the fishing marina in the harbor between 6:30-7:00am, or from the new El Cid Marina, and return after 2:30pm. It’s best to reserve a boat when making your client’s hotel reservation.

(Fishing can be fully commissionable.)

The Star Fleet is one of Mexico’s finest fishing fleets. With more than 30 years experience, it is the largest fleet in Mazatlán (15 boats). Star Fleet clients have established several IGFA world records, including those for striped marlin and dolphin fish. Call (210) 377-0451 for reservations.

The Aries Fleet of eleven U.S. made boats and top rate equipment actively encourages catch and release and has convenient departures from the El Cid Marina, adjacent to the hotel zone. Contact Mexico Sportsman (1-800-633-3085) for reservations.

If deep sea fishing ins’t your choice, then take advantage of some of the best bass fishing Mexico has to offer. Lake Comedero and El Salto have been stocked with native black bass as well as Florida black bass. Strongly recommended is Aviles Brothers, an outfitter with intimate knowledge of the area. They can be booked by calling the Mexico Sportsman in San Antonio, TX, -1-800-633-3085 (U.S. and Canada). Another recommended operator in Anglers Inn International, U.S. tel. (915) 577-0033; Mazatlán tel. (69) 166013.

HUNTING

Many species of duck are plentiful during winter months ( pintail, green-winged teals, red heads, gadwalls). Pheasant, quail and dove(white wing and mourning)are also abundant. The hunting season varies from year to year , but usually starts in November and continues through March. It is recommended that reservations for hunting trips be made before arriving in Mexico. Complete arrangements can be handled by calling the Mexico Sportsman in San Antonio,TX.

They handle arrangements in the Mazatlán area for the outfitter Aviles Brothers (highly recommended). They also handle hunting in the Culiacán and Los mochis areas. Prices start at around $ 175 U.S. per day. Mexico Sportsman reservations: 1-800-633-3085 (U.S. and Canada).

Another recommended operator is Anglers Inn International, U.S. tel. (915) 577-0033; Mazatán tel. (69) 166013.

U.S. HUNTING & FISHING OPERATORS

Anglers Inn International (915) 577-0033
Comedero Fishing Lodge (903) 489-1656
Pan American Tours (915) 778-5395
Ron Speed’s Adventures (903) 489-1656
Mexican Hunting
Association (562) 421-6215
Mexico Sportsman (800) 633-3085

SPECTATOR SPORTS

Bullfights/Baseball: Mazatlán has an excellent bullring open from Christmas through Easter, on Sundays at 4:00pm, tel.(69) 841666. It also boasts a fine professional AAA baseball team from October through January, right where the American baseball season leaves off. Major league star Fernando Valenzuela got his start in this league.

Birdwatchers: Some of North America’s greatest migratory bird routes cross the State of Sinaloa. Marshlands of Central Sinaloa near Culiacán are visited by over million birds each winter.

AROUND THE STATE

Culiacán

Sinaloa’s capital city of Culiacán (population 600,000) sits at the junction of Humaya and Tamazula Rivers in the heart of the state’s agricultural region. It is a prosperous, vibrant city well positioned geographically to host visitors driving between Mazatlán and the state’s northern points of interest. It also accommodates sportsmen venturing either to the Sinaloan coastline (a mere 60 km west of the city) or to upland lakes and colonial towns tucked into the Sierra Madre foothills.

Originally founded in 1531 by Spaniard Nuño Beltrán de Guzmán, Culiacán served as a base for early Spanish exploration of Mexico’s inhospitable northwest territory. The town changed little until Sinaloa’s emergence as an agrarian powerhouse in the last 30 years. Today it plays the role of transit hub for rail, truck, and cargo shipments and as a major food processing center. Despite the city’s overtly commercial veneer, Culiacán has several shady parks, an attractive waterfront promenade, a few worthwhile museums, and some quality restaurants and hotels. Head to La Lomita, a hilltop viewpoint with a small church for excellent views of Culiacán.

Sight-seeing attractions include the Tres Rios/Isla de Oraba recreation areas (a downtown riverside walkway and park), the Santuario del Sagrado Corazón de Jesus, the city’s attractive 19^th century Cathedral, the adjacent Palacio Municipal and Plaza Alvaro Obregón.

Museums include the Museo del Arte de Sinaloa (housing hundreds of works by 20^th century Mexican artists), the Centro de Ciencias de Sinaloa (a new science center with planetarium and world’s second largest meteorite!) and the Casino de la Cultura (an elegant 1920’s era casino converted into a cultural center).

There are several interesting parks: Parque Revolución (south of the city center with lots of trees) Parque Ecológico, Parque Culiacán 87 (with a small lake, water slides, and outdoor theater) and Parque Costitución (housing a small zoo).

Visitor facilities are quite good, including three 5-star hotels. There are several seafood/Mexican cuisine restaurants: Carlos ‘n Charlies, Colinas, El mirador, Chaparral, Las Palmas.

LODGING – CULIACÁN

***** Executive
Tel/Fax: 52-67-139300

***** Hotel San Marcos
Tel: 52-67-137876 Fax: 52-67-139752

***** San Luis Lindavista
Tel: 52-67-167010 Fax: 52-67-150815

**** Holiday Inn Express
Tel: 52-67-165850 Fax: 52-67-125670

**** Tres Rios
Tel: 52-67-505280 Fax: 52-67-505283

Excursions Around

Culiacán

ALTATA
This large bay and estuary, located 62 km west of Culiacán, has become a haven for birdwatchers, beach lovers, bird hunters (duck and dove) and fishermen. Better beaches are located 15 km to the north at Playa el Tambor. Both beach areas have simple seafood restaurants, but few other facilities.

COSALA
Founded in 1562, Cosalá is a picturesque former colonial mining center surrounded by lush rolling hills, streams, waterfalls, and tropical fruit groves. Cosalá is located 162 kms southeast of Culiacán, near Sinaloa’s eastern border with Durango State. The city’s claim-to-fame includes being the state capital in the 1820’s (when the city’s population reached over 20,000), and having some of Sinaloa’s richest silver and gold mines.

The city´s attractive winding cobbled lanes are lined with rustic colonial-era buildings and homes, many of which date to the 18^th century. Sites include the Iglesia de Santa Ursula (dating to the 18^th century and adorned with silver-leaf interior), the Museo de Minería e Historia (with mining artifacts and historic displays), and the 18^th century Palacio Municipal (with an interesting 200-year-old 24-hour clock on its exterior).

Attractions around Cosalá include the Gruta Mexico (a series of enormous caves), the Balneario de Vado Hondo (a natural park with mineral springs, waterfalls and a lake), and easy access to Presa Lopez Portillo ("El Comedero"), one of Mexico’s best large mouth bass fishing lakes. The lake is 15 km north of Cosalá.

IMALA
Located 29 km to the east of Culiacán (on the way to the well-known bass fishing lake Presa Sanalona) is the village of Imala, famous for its balnearios (mineral baths). A 17^th century church and plaza are across from the mineral bath entrance.

Distance/ Travel Time Summary

FROM TO VIA DISTANCE TRANSIT TIME:

Los Mochis Culiacán Route 15 210 kms 2:45 hours
Los Mochis Mazatlán Route 15 425 kms 5:30 hours
Culiacán Mazatlán Route 15 220 kms 2:45 hours
Culiacán Cosalá Route 15 168 kms 2:00 hours
Mazatlán Concordia Route 40 45 kms 0:45 hours
Mazatlán Copala Route 40 69 kms 1:15 hours
Mazatlán Rosarío Route 15 76 kms 1:00 hours
Mazatlán Teacapán Route 15 138 kms 1:45 hours

Hunting

The hills, mountains and reservoirs to the east of Culiacán and the lagoons and estuaries of the Sinaloan coast are becoming known as Mexico’s best hunting grounds. Bird game species include Mourning Dove, White Wing Dove, ducks, geese, and quail. The hunting season in Sinaloa runs from October through the end of February. Regulations governing hunting licenses and firearm importation are quite strict. All foreign hunters must be accompanied by a licensed Mexican hunting guide. Seasons vary according to game. Contact the Asociación de Organizadores Cinegéticos del Estado de Sinaloa (Association of Sinaloan Hunting Outfitters) for a detailed listing of operators, tel. 52-67-120366. Other useful contacts are the State Tourism Offices (see listing on MZT-3).

Fishing

Upland lakes, reservoirs and rivers are recognized as having perhaps Mexico´s best bass fishing. Lakes in the Culiacán area include Presa Adolfo Lopez Mateos (Varejonal, Mexico’s third largest dam), Presa Sanalona, Presa Lopez Portillo (El Comedero), and Presa Ing. J Guerrero Alcocer (Vinoramas). A leading Culiacán based operator is Los Cascabeles, tel. 52-67-136822.

C U L I A C Á N H U N T I N G O U T F I T T E R S

Pichiguila Gun Club 67-148244
Patolandia 67-600850
Mezquitillo H.R. 67-127679
PT Hunting Club 67-600850

U . S . H U N T I N G & F I S H I N G O P E R A T O R S

Anglers Inn International (915) 577-0033
Pan American Tours (800) 876-3942
Ron Speed’s Adventures (903) 489-1656
Mexican Hunting Association (562) 4216215
Mexico Sportsman (800) 6333085

El Fuerte

This quaint village, population 30,000, set along the banks of the Río Fuerte and surrounded by large vegetable farms and orchards does double duty as an alternative departure point for eastbound Copper Canyon visitors, and as a tourist destination popular with sportsmen.

Located about an hour’s drive northeast of Los Mochis (78 km), El Fuerte draws more and more visitors. It is, in some ways, a more appealing departure point for Copper Canyon journeys. The train departs El Fuerte 90 minutes after the Los Mochis boarding. Since the train ride from Los Mochis to El Fuerte is rather uneventful, why not sleep in?

Founded in 1564, El Fuerte served as an important commerce and missionary center for most of the colonial era. Its history has been closely tied to the area’s rich silver mines, as El Fuerte was a station on Spain’s Camino Real route. A Franciscan mission was built in 1590, and in 1610 a riverside fort was erected to guard the settlement from Indian attacks and protect the silver haul from the Crown’s local mines.

The city’s history is closely linked to nearby Alamos in neighboring Sonora State. Both towns shared administrative control over a vast region of northwest Mexico and are a mere 100 km apart as the crow flies.

E L F U E R T E H U N T I N G / F I S H I N G O U T F I T T E R S

Hidalgo Lodge
(U.S. contact) Tel. (626) 683-9382
Fax. (626) 792-7322

Balderrama Tours
Tel. (681) 87046 or
Fax. (681) 20046
(800) 896-8196(US)

Chico’s Lodge
Tel. (689) 30158

Las Bugambilias
Tel. (689) 30985

Marcelino Alcaraz Guide Services
Tel. (689) 30985

In fact, El Fuerte was the capital of Sinaloa State from 1824-26. There’s talk of paving the existing dirt road (the actual Camino Real route of colonial days) between the two cities.

Head to the city’s green and inviting Plaza for some glimmer of the city’s former glory. Surrounding the main square are fine examples of provincial colonial architecture, including a brick Palacio Municipal, and Cathedral (dating to the 18^th century). Its streets invite strolling past century old homes with iron grilled windows and carved stone facades. Just a few blocks away is the Río Fuerte, overlooked by the crumbling ruins of the original Spanish fort (now being restored).

Note: The city began an urban beautification porject in ’99; gardens, plazas, and streets are to be restored.

This thriving town is an important agrarian center for Sinaloa, Mexico’s richest producer of field crops and vegetables. Three large dams produce enormous irrigation works and large reservoirs. (The Río Fuerte is impounded by Presa Hidalgo, Presa Colosio "Huites," and Presa Ortiz de Dominguez.)

With so much water, El Fuerte has become a base for some of Mexico’s best year round large mouth and black bass fishing. The area is also ideal duck, quail, dove, and Canadian geese hunting. The season runs Nov.-Feb., and hunters must be accompanied by a bonded local outfitter.

Los Mochis & Topolobampo

Set atop the flat coastal plains of northern Sinaloa state, Los Mochis and its nearby port of Topolobampo appear at first glance to be of little interest to vacationers. Los Mochis (los-MOE-chees) in fact is best known as a place that most visitors are anxious to get away from- thanks to its being a major transit point for railroad, ferry, and bus passengers and a gateway for Sierra Tarahumara (Coper Canyon) visits. Likewise, Topolobampo (toe-poh-low-BAHM-poh), one of Mexico’s most modern port facilities, with a large industrial/food processing corridor, would seem to offer little for adventure-hungry foreign visitors. While neither city can claim destination resort status, Los Mochis and Topolobampo are worth more than a fleeting glance, especially for sportsman and ecotourists.

Los Mochis, population 300,000, is a lively city an support center for northern Sinaloa’s agricultural economy. It lies amidst two prolific valleys with three major dammed rivers providing abundant irrigation. The region is one of Mexico’s most fertile, supporting vegetable crops, grains, and fruit orchards.

Despite having few historic points of interest, Los Mochis has an interesting past. In pre-Hispanic times, northern Sinaloa was home to several indigenous tribes (Zuaque, Tehueco, Ahome, and Mayo tribes). The first Jesuit missionaries arrived in 1590, establishing a mission in El Fuerte.

In the 19^th century the efforts of two American entrepreneurs led to a permanent settlements in the area. In 1872, an American idealist, Albert K. Owen, attempted to establish a utopian society and develop a sea port for transcontinental trade (Topolobampo). His idealist dreams evaporated, but the vision of a trade route was the impetus for the celebrated Chihuahua al Pacífico train line. Another American, Benjamin Johnston, established a colony in 1893 in what is today Los Mochis. A large sugar processing plant was built (still in operation), and the city’s present day grid layout (with American-looking residential neighborhoods) was developed.

Sightseeing attractions include the Museo Regional del Valle del Fuerte, and Avenida Obregón, lined with a colorful assortment of shops, markets and cafes, the old Sugar Mill and original colony, and the Plaza Solidaridad, an attractive landscaped square with a white church and bandstand.

Jardín Botánico/Parque Sinaloa: this former garden of Benjamin Johnston is now one of Latin America’s best botanical gardens. Palm and ornamental tree species from around the world are found here, along with some 50 species of exotic birds.

Cerro de la Memoria: elevated views of the city and surrounding area.

HUNTING & FISHING OUTFITTERS Los Mochis/Topolobampo Area

Balderrama Tours
Tel (681) 87046, Fax (681) 20046
Or 1-800-896-8196

La Torcaza Club
(681) 52624

Los Tres Amigos
(681) 52428

Macozahui
(686) 20538

Wingshooters Paradise
(681) 52151

For bird hunters (duck, geese, quail, dove) and lake fisherman, Los Mochis is an excellent base for outdoorsmen. Millions of North American birds migrate south to the lagoons and lakes of Sinaloa. For fishermen northern Sinaloa’s three large reservoirs (Presa Miguel Hidalgo, Presa Colosio, Presa Josefa Ortíz de Dominguez) are stocked with black bass. Some excellent local operators provide professional guide services (see listing below).

Copper Canyon-bound visitors use Los Mochis as a departure point for rail excursions into neighboring Chihuahua State (see separate chapter for Copper Canyon details). The train station is located two km east of downtown on Av. Onofre Serrano. Two local travel agencies provide advanced ticketing and reservations for train tickets: Viajes Flamingo, tel. 1-800-896-81-96 (located in the Hotel Santa Anita lobby) and Fiesta Tours, tel. 52-681-83986 / fax. 52-681-83990 (located at Calle S. Rendón 517).

Located 24 km to the south via a paved 4-lane highway is the town and port of Topolobampo (population 7,500). Its port facilities are the world’s third deepest. It gained cargo port status in 1991, but still takes second billing to Sinaloa’s main port of Mazatlán. The main reasons to visit Topolobampo revolve around its location at the mouth of a large natural harbor on the ecologically endowed Sea of Cortés. Offshore attractions include several islands, while the nearby sea coast is lined with pristine coastal ecosystems: rich mangroves, isolated coves, deserted beaches.

Topolobampo Bay is rich in marine life, making its waters ideal for diving and sport fishing (marlin, sailfish, dorado, yellowtail). Roca el Farallón is a sanctuary for seal and sea lions. Isla San Ignacio, Isla Macapule (to the south opposite San Ignacio Lagoon) and Isla Santa Maria have lovely beaches. Dove and duck hunting north of Topolobampo is excellent. (See listing previous page for local guides.)

This is also the terminus for the Chihuahua al Pacífico Railroad (though few tourists either board or disembark here, preferring either El Fuerte or Los Mochis). A popular ocean ferry departs here daily for La Paz (departs 10pm, arrive La Paz 8am). For schedule/fare information call 52-681-20141. Tickets may be acquired in Los Mochis at Fiesta Tours, tel. 52-68-183986 / fax. 52-68-183990. The 10-hour crossing is not particularly pleasant, since the ferry caters mostly to cargo trucks and Mexican travelers on a budget.